Belts and cable, one guide
Measure it once, order it right
Custom-cut belts and cut-to-length cable are made to your numbers, so we make the measuring part hard to get wrong. Two numbers for a belt, one for a cable.
What we need
- Belt
- Width × full loop
- Cable
- Tip to tip
- Custom-cut
- Final sale
Line 1
Measure your belt
Width across the belt surface, and the length of the full loop. Get those two right and the builder prices the cut immediately.
1 · Width
Measure straight across the belt surface, edge to edge. Measure the belt, not the deck or the side rails.
most home belts are 16-20″ wide
2 · Length (the full loop)
Belt off the machine
Lay the loop flat and measure it end to end, then double it. A flat 55″ loop is a 110″ belt.
Belt still on the machine
Put a piece of tape on the belt at the deck's edge, measure to the end of the deck, then rotate the belt by hand and keep adding tape-to-tape sections until your mark comes back around. The sections add up to the full loop.
the full loop, end to end
If your treadmill came with a 1-ply belt, replace it with a 1-ply. A 2-ply belt on a small motor can stress and overheat it.
Line 2
Measure your cable
A cable is one measurement, not two, and it is priced by the foot rather than at a flat price. Both of those change how you measure, so it gets its own section rather than a footnote under the belt guide.
1 · Length (tip to tip)
Measure the old cable end to end, including the fittings at both ends. The fittings are part of the run, so a cut measured cable-only comes back short. One number, in inches - there is no loop to double.
12-600″ tip to tip, fittings included
2 · Diameter
You do not measure this one. Cable diameter is a property of the cable we stock, so pick it from the listings rather than reading it off your tape. If you are unsure which one your machine uses, send us a photo of the old cable end and we will tell you.
Rates come from each listing. The builder does the pricing - this page only confirms your numbers.
Cable is priced by the foot, and part feet round up
Your inches are converted to whole feet, always rounding up to the next whole foot: an 84″ cut is 7 ft, and an 86″ cut is still billed as 8 ft. One cart line covers up to 99 ft; a longer single run is a text or a quote, not a checkout.
Ends we do not carry, so you can still describe them
We do not sell any of the hardware below. It is here purely so you can recognise what is on your cable and tell us. Measure end to end including the fittings, note which of these you have, and text us the description at 657-215-2478. The end fittings we do stock are chosen inside the cable builder.
Swaged threaded studs and swage sockets (open and closed)
The cable disappears into a smooth pressed sleeve rather than a crimped ball or stop.
Fork and jaw end fittings, toggle jaws
A two-pronged fork or a jaw with a removable pin through it.
Turnbuckles and tensioners
A threaded barrel in the middle of the run that you twist to take up slack.
Quick links, snap hooks and carabiners
A removable link with a screw gate or a spring gate.
Wire rope clips (U-bolt or fist grip) and crosby clamps
A saddle held on with two nuts, clamping the cable back onto itself.
Ferrules and stop buttons outside our three diameters
Anything sized for cable other than 1/8″, 3/16″ or 1/4″.
Proprietary moulded ends specific to one manufacturer
A one-piece plastic or rubber end moulded onto the cable with no separate hardware.
Would rather not measure at all?
A model name can cover several machines that take different belts. The model number on your machine's frame is the exact one. Match by that, or skip the lookup and measure the belt you already have.
Both lines are final sale
Custom-cut belts and cut-to-length cable are made to the numbers you give us, so neither can be returned or exchanged. That is the whole reason this page exists: confirm your measurement here, then let the builder price it.